Coily hair (type 4) forms tight coils, S-shapes or sharp zigzags, often with a lot of shrinkage. A study of hair density found African volunteers had lower average density and slower-growing hair than white volunteers — one reason length retention, rather than growth, is the focus for many people with coily hair.
The American Academy of Dermatology advises always combing textured hair and tight curls while damp, with a wide-tooth comb. Protective styles that pull too hard can cause traction alopecia, which the British Association of Dermatologists says is often seen in women and children of African descent who regularly use braids or chemical relaxers.
Care priorities
Wash less often, but clear product build-up when it happens.
Moisture and slip: conditioner every wash, leave-ins, creams and oils for the lengths.
Detangle damp, never dry, with a wide-tooth comb and plenty of conditioner.
Gentle protective styling: if a style hurts, it's too tight; leave the edges out; don't keep braids in longer than about 6 weeks or extensions longer than about 8 (BAD).
Low heat, with protectant, and one chemical service at a time.
The patterns
4A: Small, tight coils with a visible S-pattern.
4B: Sharp Z-shaped zigzags rather than round coils.
4C: Very tight zigzags with little visible pattern and a lot of shrinkage.
Care basics
Washing
Wash about once a week or every other week, or when there's build-up or unwanted oiliness (American Academy of Dermatology; British Association of Dermatologists). Washing too often can dry the scalp and hair.
Conditioning
Condition every wash, use a leave-in, and always detangle damp hair with a wide-tooth comb, working up from the ends.
Styling
Use a heat protectant and the lowest setting that works — the American Academy of Dermatology suggests straightening no more than once a week. Keep braids, twists and extensions loose and give your hairline a rest.
Night-time
Protect hair at night with a loose silk or satin bonnet or scarf, or a loose pineapple; avoid tight styles and rollers in bed.
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